A 6-Day Big Bend Itinerary for Serious Hikers and Overlanders
This comprehensive itinerary is perfect for advanced hikers and off-roaders who want to see the main sights but also find solitude in this magical National Park.
Are you planning a trip to Big Bend National Park? Do you have extensive hiking experience? Do you own a high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicle?
If you answered yes to at least two of those questions, you’ve stumbled upon the perfect Big Bend National Park itinerary. This six-day adventure is perfect for people who seek solitude in the vast expanse that is the Big Bend, but who also want to see popular sites such as The Window, Langford Hot Springs, and the Chisos Basin.
This itinerary is almost an exact mirror of what I did in Big Bend National Park, but with a few tweaks that I think would make it even better. I made my plans up day-by-day while in Big Bend; hopefully this can help some prospective visitors reduce planning time and increase activity time!
Big Bend Quick Facts
- Location: Southwest Texas
- Size: 800,000 acres
- Best time to visit: Fall, early spring, and winter
- Year established: 1935
- Annual number of visitors: About 518,000 in 2022
- Miles of trail: 201
Big Bend National Park Overview
Big Bend is a massive National Park; in fact, it’s the 15th largest in the National Park system in the U.S. With more than 800,000 acres of wilderness to explore, there’s something for everyone at Big Bend.
The park encompasses the Chihuahuan Desert and nearly 200 miles of river (Rio Grande National Wild & Scenic River), lending itself to spectacular and impressive biodiversity in flora and fauna.
Within the park, visitors can enjoy a number of front-country trails ranging in difficulty from easy to moderate, as well as several trails that meander through the backcountry, ranging from moderate to extremely challenging.
Camping is available in established front-country campgrounds, as well as along primitive dirt roads that require a 4x4 vehicle.
But Big Bend has more than wilderness to offer: This park is also home to eight sites on the National Register of Historic Places. Anyone who’s fond of history will love these places, several of which are conveniently roadside:
- Burro Mesa Archeological District
- Castolon Historic District
- Hot Springs Historic District
- The Mariscal Mining District
- Homer Wilson Blue Creek Ranch Site
- Rancho Estelle
- Daniel’s Farmhouse
- Luna’s Jacal
Home to deep-cut canyons, towering cliffs and buttes, jagged dikes, exposed laccoliths, and other interesting geological features, vistas in Big Bend change at every turn.
Not to mention — Big Bend’s remoteness results in some of the best night skies in the country.
For more information on features, activities, and wildlife in Big Bend, visit the National Park Service official website.
Big Bend Itinerary
I just spent six spectacular days in Big Bend National Park, and I’m excited to recount my trip and turn it into an itinerary for others to enjoy.
Disclaimer: This is an action-packed itinerary intended for hikers of an advanced skill level with sufficient stamina for back-to-back long hiking days, as well as individuals who have a 4x4 vehicle that can handle the (very bad) dirt roads in Big Bend.
Day 1: Getting Started — Warm-up Hikes and Sightseeing
Day 1 stats:
- Total miles hiked: 5
- Total elevation gain hiked: 194 feet
- Total miles driven (once in the park): About 60 paved miles and 5 to 10 unpaved miles, depending on where you choose to camp
Enter the Park
Enter through the north entrance, Persimmon Gap, early in the morning. Stop at the Persimmon Gap Visitor Center for park info if needed (this visitor center is closed in summer).
Tip: Entrances at Big Bend National Park are always open, but fee stations have changing operating hours. You can enter the park at any time of day, but be sure to stop at a fee station to pay your entry fee (standard entry fee: $30 per vehicle, good for 7 days)
Hike: Dog Canyon Trail
As you drive south from the Persimmon Gap entrance, stop about 4.5 miles down the main park road at Dog Canyon Trail, your first Big Bend adventure!
Dog Canyon Trail is one of the only trails in the northern part of the park. It’s a gentle, relatively flat, 4-mile out-and-back trail that leads to a canyon in the Deadhorse Mountains. There is no shade on this trail, so be prepared, especially if you’re headed out in the warmer summer months.
Dog Canyon Trail quick facts:
- Type: out and back
- Mileage: 4 miles round-trip
- Elevation gain: 50 feet
- Difficulty: Easy, with the exception of the last 0.5 mile, which is a rocky wash that requires careful attention to footing
- Navigation: marked by rock cairns
- Getting here and parking: There is a small parking lot off of the main park road that can accommodate about five vehicles
Drive: Main Park Road to Panther Junction
After finishing up your hike to Dog Canyon, continue south to Panther Junction Visitor Center and store, where you can get cell service and WiFi, as well as fill up your gas or diesel tank and stock up on snacks and essentials if needed.
Skip this part if you don’t need gas, food, water, or internet service.
Drive: Main Park Road to Rio Grande Village
Head southeast toward Rio Grande Village. This may seem like a lot of driving for one day, but in reality, it’s less than 50 miles from the Persimmon Gap entrance to Rio Grande Village on the southeast end of the park, and you’ll be marveling at the park’s incredible views the entire way. It’s really an enjoyable drive!
Stop and Look: Rio Grande Overlook and Boquillas Overlook
Near Rio Grande Village, there are two impressive overlooks you can drive up to: Rio Grande Overlook and Boquillas Overlook. These quick stops present you with expansive views and are well worth the stop.
Hike: Langford Hot Springs
This short, easy hike takes you to one of the most popular features in Big Bend National Park: a geothermal spring situated on the bank of the Rio Grande. By the time you arrive, it will be late in the afternoon, so expect crowds if you are visiting the park during peak months (fall through spring). However, I maintain that it’s worth going at sunset due to the views you’ll get from the top of the trail.
Tip: Most visitors just walk to the hot spring and back to the parking lot, missing out on the incredible vista from the top of the trail. Even during peak hours, my partner and I were alone on the upper portion of the trail.
Langford Hot Springs Trail quick facts:
- Type: loop
- Mileage: 1 mile round-trip
- Elevation gain: 144 feet
- Difficulty: Easy
- Navigation: clear trail and occasional signs
- Getting here and parking: To get to the trailhead, you must drive down a dry, rocky wash. Four-wheel-drive, high-clearance vehicles are required on the one-way portion of the road. There is a parking lot about halfway for vehicles that can’t make it down the one-way portion. From there, you can continue on foot.
Camp: Gravel Pit or La Clocha
Gravel Pit and La Clocha are some of the closest primitive campsites to Rio Grande Village on the southeast end of the park. We recommend booking a permit ahead of time online (at recreation.gov), but we got lucky and snagged a site at Gravel Pit on the day of by inquiring at the Rio Grande Village ranger station.
A 4x4 vehicle is required to reach these sites. Even in our 4x4 Sprinter van, we felt wobbly. There are five sites total, with the closest being about 2 miles from the main paved road.
After a packed day of warm-up hiking (trust me on that — Dog Canyon and Hot Springs are warm-up hikes for the rest of this itinerary), enjoy a meal and the infamous Big Bend night sky before settling in to sleep.
Gravel Pit/La Clocha camping quick facts:
- 4x4, high-clearance vehicle required. Access is via unpaved, extremely rocky roads with a lot of ruts and dips.
- No wood fires are allowed at any time. You can have charcoal fires on a grill if it’s raised off of the ground; you may also use propane or butane camp stoves.
- Generator use is not allowed; “natural quiet” is a protected resource in Big Bend
- Pets are allowed on the dirt roads and at the campsites only — not in open desert. Pick up all pet waste and store it in the provided bear locker, and pack it out when you leave. Put it in a trash receptacle in the park.
- Bury human waste in a 6-inch-deep hole or pack it out. Pack out all toilet paper.
Day 2: Backcountry Hiking
Day 2 stats:
- Total miles hiked: 14.5 miles
- Total elevation gain hiked: 4,000 feet
- Total miles driven: About 10 paved; about 20 unpaved (more or less depending on where you camp)
Drive: From Camp to Langford Hot Springs
You’ll have a very early wakeup call today in order to finish hiking before dark.
My boyfriend and I decided on day one that we would return to the hot springs at sunrise the following morning in an attempt to escape the crowd.
We hiked under the moonlight to the hot springs and were rewarded with a relaxing soak as the sun rose. While we weren’t completely alone, the spring was much less crowded and more enjoyable. I definitely think it was worth going back. We did not do the full trail this time, instead opting to turn around after soaking in the spring because I had a long hike lined up.
Skip this portion if you don’t want to go back to the hot springs.
Drive: From Hot Springs to Marufo Vega trailhead
After a quick dip in the hot springs, head to Marufo Vega Trail near Rio Grande Village for a long day hike.
Hike: Marufo Vega Trail
This is one of the most — if not the most — spectacular day hikes I have ever completed. Marufo Vega trail is a 14-mile loop trail that leads you in and out of the canyons of Big Bend and parallels the river for miles. You will enjoy near-constant panoramic views as you pass by the cliffs of the Sierra del Carmen, Deadhorse Mountains, and Boquillas Canyon.
Marufo Vega is not at all a beginner-friendly trail. It is strenuous in terms of physical effort and technical terrain, and it can be challenging to navigate. At times, especially as I descended the south fork into the canyon, I relied entirely on rock cairns (stacked rocks) to guide me. Had they been misplaced, I likely would have gotten lost.
For those who have the requisite fitness and preparedness, Marufo Vega is an unforgettable trail and a grand, fun time.
Marufo Vega Trail quick facts:
- Type: loop
- Mileage: 14 mile round-trip
- Elevation gain: About 4,000 feet
- Difficulty: Hard
- Navigation: Some parts of the trail are clear and easy to follow, but you will likely rely on rock cairns for a great deal of this hike. It’s highly recommended that you bring a map, compass, or GPS device — or all three. Cell phones will not work on this trail.
- Getting here and parking: There is a moderately sized parking lot across from the trailhead on the paved road.
Drive: Marufo Vega Trailhead to Solis Primitive Campsite
If you’ve been itching for some real solitude, you will love the Solis primitive campsites. There are two sites, and they are out there — way, way out there. Solis Camp 1 and Camp 2 are located 14 miles from the main paved park road. You’ll travel 9.6 miles down River Road East, then 4.5 miles down the Solis access road. There is a 1.7-mile river access road, on which the Solis sites are located.
Camp: Solis Primitive Campsite
We camped at Solis 1, which is located just a few hundred yards down the 1.7-mile river access road. It was tough to get here, but the isolation makes the rough drive worthwhile. In our 4x4 Revel, it took almost two hours to arrive. This is because the height of the vehicle means we’re at a greater tipping risk and have to take ruts and dips very slowly.
Solis camping quick facts:
- 4x4, high-clearance vehicle required. Access is via unpaved, extremely rocky roads with a lot of ruts and dips.
- No wood fires are allowed at any time. You can have charcoal fires on a grill if it’s raised off of the ground; you may also use propane or butane camp stoves.
- Generator use is not allowed; “natural quiet” is a protected resource in Big Bend
- Pets are allowed on the dirt roads and at the campsites only — not in open desert. Pick up all pet waste and store it in the provided bear locker, and pack it out when you leave. Put it in a trash receptacle in the park.
- Bury human waste in a 6-inch-deep hole or pack it out. Pack out all toilet paper.
Day 3: Down Day
Day 3 stats:
- Total miles hiked: About 4 miles, plus whatever cross-country exploration you feel like doing
- Total elevation gain hiked: About 50 feet, plus that from any cross-country exploration
- Total miles driven: NONE!
After the long, rough drive to camp Solis, my boyfriend and I decided to stay put at the campsite and explore on foot. We just couldn’t stomach the idea of another four hours (two out and two in) of dirt-road driving that day!
It ended up being a great decision. We walked down the river access road from Solis camp one and checked out the river viewpoint. We also found the Mariscal Canyon trailhead, which is an extremely remote 14-mile round trip hike. We didn’t do that hike, but it is an option if you have more time.
After walking back down the river access road, we had lunch at the campsite and then decided to do some cross-country exploration. Big Bend is one of very few National Parks that allows cross-country (off-trail) hiking, and we are so glad we took advantage of this opportunity. We meandered through the open desert for some time before reaching more river access points. It was a great adventure.
Cross-country hiking requires serious preparation and navigation skills. It is best left to individuals who have extensive hiking experience and gear. On any cross-country hiking expedition, carry a GPS device and satellite phone to get in touch with park officials in case of emergency.
Although I call day three a “down day,” I ended up hiking a total of almost 8 miles between the river access road and cross-country hiking.
Camp: Solis Primitive Campsite
We were lucky to snag two nights at Solis, which is why we didn’t have to drive on day three. I highly recommend camping at Solis for two nights in order to enjoy the backcountry and avoid long hours of driving on back-to-back days.
Solis camping quick facts:
- 4x4, high-clearance vehicle required. Access is via unpaved, extremely rocky roads with a lot of ruts and dips.
- No wood fires are allowed at any time. You can have charcoal fires on a grill if it’s raised off of the ground; you may also use propane or butane camp stoves.
- Generator use is not allowed; “natural quiet” is a protected resource in Big Bend
- Pets are allowed on the dirt roads and at the campsites only — not in open desert. Pick up all pet waste and store it in the provided bear locker, and pack it out when you leave. Put it in a trash receptacle in the park.
- Bury human waste in a 6-inch-deep hole or pack it out. Pack out all toilet paper.
Day 4: Popular Attractions
Day 4 stats:
- Total miles hiked: About 4 miles
- Total elevation gain hiked: About 230 feet
- Total miles driven: About 33 unpaved miles; about 55 paved miles
Drive: Camp Solis to Boquillas Canyon
Wake up early and begin the arduous drive back to the main park road from Camp Solis. After 14 miles on dirt roads, head eastward on the main park road to reach the Boquillas Canyon trailhead.
Hike: Boquillas Canyon Trail
This easy, 1.5-mile roundtrip trail is an out-and-back through one of Big Bend’s three major canyons. The Boquillas Canyon trail takes you along a pleasant path from the trailhead into the canyon, where you can walk along the Rio Grande and marvel at the massive gorge walls.
Boquillas Canyon Trail quick facts:
- Type: out-and-back
- Mileage: 1.5 miles round-trip
- Elevation gain: About 150 feet
- Difficulty: easy
- Navigation: the trail is clearly marked and easy to follow
- Getting here and parking: There is a moderately sized parking directly at the trailhead, right off of the main park road
Drive: Boquillas Canyon Trailhead to Panther Junction
It’s time to start exploring the center of the park. After the quick hike at Boquillas Canyon, head northwest toward the Panther Junction Visitor Center for a fuel stop. Skip this part if you don’t need to restock on gas/diesel, water, or food.
Drive: Panther Junction to Grapevine Hills Trailhead
From Panther Junction (you’ll pass through it whether you stop or not), head to Grapevine Hills Road. This is a dirt road and is only passable to vehicles with high clearance and 4x4 capabilities.
Hike: Grapevine Hills Trail (Balanced Rock)
Grapevine Hills Trail is one of the most popular trails in Big Bend National Park. It’s fairly easy and leads to a widely photographed geological feature, Balanced Rock. I found this hike very fun and highly amusing thanks to all of the unique rock features! It’s a geologist’s wonder. Even in the afternoon during a busy month (January), the trail wasn’t too crowded, although it was definitely one of the busier ones I hiked.
- Type: out-and-back
- Mileage: 2.2 miles round-trip
- Elevation gain: About 80 feet
- Difficulty: easy
- Navigation: the trail is clearly marked and easy to follow
- Getting here and parking: There is a moderately sized parking directly at the trailhead, right off of Grapevine Hills Road.
Drive: Grapevine Hills Trailhead to Camp Buenos Aires
After today’s two short hikes, it’s time to head to a primitive camp on the western side of the park. We camped at Buenos Aires off of River Road West for two nights and it stole the show. This camp immediately became our favorite site out of the three we stayed in. There are several other options along River Road West if Buenos Aires is not available, though.
Buenos Aires camping quick facts:
- 4x4, high-clearance vehicle required. Access is via unpaved, extremely rocky roads with a lot of ruts and dips.
- No wood fires are allowed at any time. You can have charcoal fires on a grill if it’s raised off of the ground; you may also use propane or butane camp stoves.
- Generator use is not allowed; “natural quiet” is a protected resource in Big Bend
- Pets are allowed on the dirt roads and at the campsites only — not in open desert. Pick up all pet waste and store it in the provided bear locker, and pack it out when you leave. Put it in a trash receptacle in the park.
- Bury human waste in a 6-inch-deep hole or pack it out. Pack out all toilet paper.
Stop and Look: Sotol Vista and Mule Ears
You won’t regret stopping at these two viewpoints on your way to Camp Buenos Aires via Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. They’re quick roadside stops with wonderful photo opportunities!
Day 5: Chisos Backcountry
Day 5 stats:
- Total miles hiked: 11.8 miles
- Total elevation gain hiked: About 2,700 feet
- Total miles driven: About 9 unpaved miles; about 75 paved miles
Drive: Camp Buenos Aires to Chisos Basin
Leave camp this morning and head to the very popular Chisos Basin, where you can access a number of trailheads. Before you begin your long hike this day, it’s worth taking the quick jaunt to the Window View Trail, which is a short 0.3-mile, paved walk to a viewpoint with 50 total feet of elevation gain.
Hike: Pinnacles Trail to Emory Peak
You’ll want to get an early start on the famous Emory Peak hike to catch some solitude and potentially have the summit all to yourself. I started this hike at around 8:30 a.m. and was alone for almost the entire ascent, just passing a few other hikers along the way and stopping for a quick chat with a gentleman who summited just before I did.
The full Emory Peak hike is about 10.5 miles round-trip, and it’s an out-and-back. You’ll enjoy stellar views of various rock formations on Pinnacles Trail, the first portion of the hike, which brings you out of the basin and into the higher Chisos Mountains. Then, you’ll veer onto the Emory Peak leg, which quickly becomes rocky and technical.
The final climb to Emory Peak is sketchy, to put it simply. It’s an extremely technical climb with no clear path, so you’ll need to have your hands free (I had to put my camera in my pack for this) and remember the route you took up to the summit. It’s rocky, slippery, and, quite frankly, intimidating even for an experienced hiker.
All that said, it’s entirely worth the effort! At the top, it can be windy to a frightening degree, so be prepared for that regardless of season and time of day you’re up there. Bring layers, including a windbreaker.
- Type: out-and-back
- Mileage: 10.5 miles round-trip
- Elevation gain: About 2,500 feet
- Difficulty: strenuous
- Navigation: the trail is clearly marked and easy to follow, with occasional signs pointing you toward Emory Peak. The final 25-foot ascent is unmarked and via an exposed rock face; remember the route you took up in order to safely get down.
- Getting here and parking: Park at the main Chisos Basin trailhead
Drive: Chisos Basin Trailhead to Lower Burro Mesa Pouroff
You’ll surely be experiencing a hiker’s high after summiting the highest peak in Big Bend National Park. Enjoy the views (again) down Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive to the Lower Burro Mesa Pouroff trail for the day’s final jaunt. This easy, flat trail takes you to a pouroff, or seasonal waterfall, which in the winter months looks like an impressive vertical rock face. In summer, flash floods can fill the wash, so take caution and be sure to ask a ranger about forecasts.
- Type: out-and-back
- Mileage: 1 miles round-trip
- Elevation gain: About 120 feet
- Difficulty: easy
- Navigation: the trail is clearly marked and easy to follow
- Getting here and parking: There is substantial parking at the trailhead, which is located a short drive off of Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive.
Drive: Lower Burro Mesa Pouroff to Castolon Historic District
Continue down Ross Maxwell Scenic Highway until you reach the historic district of Castolon, where you can learn about early settlements in the Big Bend region and learn some interesting U.S. military history. It’s worth the stop for history buffs and for a refill on food and water.
There’s also a store, visitor center, and bathroom located at this site. Note that the visitor center at Castolon is seasonal and not open in summer. There is no gas station in Castolon.
Drive: Castolon to Camp Buenos Aires
Finally, it’s time to head to camp. On our second night at Camp Buenos Aires, the sky presented us with a magical sunset. These primitive campsites are really something special. I believe that having a 4x4 vehicle allowed us to enjoy this National Park to the utmost level.
Day 6: Big Bend’s Crown Jewel and Historic Markers
Day 6 stats:
- Total miles hiked: 2.6
- Total elevation gain hiked: 280 feet
- Total miles driven: About 5 unpaved miles; about 55 paved miles (excluding any after park exit)
Drive: Camp Buenos Aires to Santa Elena Canyon Trail
Wake up early (again, sorry) and leave camp to enjoy your final day in Big Bend National Park.
Hike: Santa Elena Canyon Trail
This is one of the best hikes in Big Bend National Park, hands down. Santa Elena Canyon is widely considered to be the park’s crown jewel, and yes, it gets crowded — so arrive early. I arrived at sunrise and had almost the entire trail to myself, while also getting to enjoy a dramatic show in the sky.
This is an easy, short hike with a great payoff. However, at certain times of year, it may be impassable due to the creek crossing in the beginning of the hike. You must cross the bed of Terlingua Creek, which may be almost dry (as it was for us, luckily) or flowing swiftly with deep water.
- Type: out-and-back
- Mileage: 1.6 miles round-trip
- Elevation gain: About 80 feet
- Difficulty: easy, with the possible exception of a river crossing during rainy months
- Navigation: the trail is clearly marked and easy to follow
- Getting here and parking: There is a parking lot at the trailhead at the end of Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive
Drive: Santa Elena Canyon Trail to Homer Wilson Ranch
Homer Wilson Ranch is one of several places in Big Bend National Park that is on the National Register of Historic Places. Follow Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive from Santa Elena Canyon to the ranch overlook parking lot.
Hike: Homer Wilson Ranch Trail
This trail is a must-do for history buffs. And on your final day in Big Bend, it’s a nice, relaxing stroll to top off all of your adventures. The trail follows a short 0.5-mile path down from the ranch overlook to the ruins of the Homer Wilson Blue Creek Ranch. Homer Wilson was an early rancher in the Big Bend area who led sheep and goats along the banks of the Blue Creek.
- Type: out-and-back
- Mileage: 1 mile round-trip
- Elevation gain: About 200 feet
- Difficulty: easy
- Navigation: the trail is clearly marked and easy to follow
- Getting here and parking: There is a parking lot at the trailhead off of Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive
If you’d like, you can add on an additional 3 miles of hiking by hiking a portion of the Blue Creek Trail, which also starts at the Homer Wilson Ranch trailhead. Birders and botanists will love the 1.5-mile path to the red rocks, at which point you can turn around and head back to the car. The full Blue Creek Trail is one-way and junctions with Laguna Meadows Trail, which takes you into the Chisos Basin.
Exit Park via Study Butte/Terlingua
After six adventurous days, we exited the park via Study Butte since we are continuing our westward journey. You can leave the park through any of the available exits, but Study Butte is the closest via fully paved roads. Plus, Venga cafe in Terlingua offers a wonderful ambiance and delicious breakfast to reward you for all of your hard work on the trails.
Total miles hiked with this itinerary: Up to 55 miles depending on your specific hiking choices.
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If you’re interested in arduous hikes such as Marufo Vega and Emory Peak but aren’t confident in your ability to safely complete them, contact Amanda at smartersweat.com to inquire about hiking fitness coaching. Amanda is a performance coach who specializes in preparing individuals for outdoor pursuits including hikes, backpacking trips, bike-packing trips, mountain biking expeditions, and more.
